Portfolio : Robert Groffier

Robert Groffier

An Atherton Wine Imports Direct Import

Domaine Groffier is the envy of many, with parcels in the Grand Crus of Chambertin Clos de Beze and Bonnes Mares, as well as the Chambolle 1er Crus Les Amoureuses, the adjacent Hauts Doix, and Sentiers, which adjoins Bonnes Mares. Even the Bourgogne comes from superior vineyards – one parcel is next to the Grand Cru Clos Vougeot and the other is adjacent to the vineyards of Morey-St-Denis.

Lauded in the late 1990s by Robert Parker as one of the top four producers in Burgundy, it would seem the reputation for Domaine Groffier could not get any higher. Clive Coates, too, was piling on the accolades, writing that Groffier was an address where you could find “real Pinot Noir” that had “complexity, purity, and finesse” (Coates 1997).

Yet, the domaine, with this its reputation for making concentrated, lush, textured, and undeniably delicious wines, would fall off the radar for some when a different style was in vogue in the early 2000s. To some degree, the concentration was a function of the 19th century method of training the vines al la Cordon Royat, developed for that purpose. Many of Groffier’s vines are also very old, which naturally results in more concentrated wines.

Important changes are underway with Nicolas Groffier, Robert’s grandson, now in charge. Depending on the vintage and the cru, Nicolas utilizes less new oak and a significant portion of whole clusters. He says his goal now is to harvest when potential alcohol is around 12.5%. The results have been tremendous and the wines offer remarkable transparency, purity and class.

Praise for Robert Groffier

“Nicolas Groffier now produces much sleeker, silkier, refined wines that express their terroirs with far greater clarity….This was another deeply impressive roster crowned by a stunningly regal Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, a sumptuous yet intellectual Chambolles, Les Amoureuses and a Bonnes-Mares, that effortlessly disguises the 100% whole bunches. These wines were a joy to taste” - Neal Martin, Vinous, Oct 2020

“Readers should note that this estate has made extraordinary strides in recent years, and is presently in the top echelon of Burgundy Producers.” – Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide, 6th ed.

“As longtime readers know, I have always admired the quality of the raw materials here and to the domaine’s immense credit, many vignerons in the Côte readily acknowledge that the vineyard work chez Groffier is second to none.” - Burghound, Jan 2008

“As long-time IWC readers know, I am a great fan of this domain’s wines” – Stephen Tanzer, I.W.C., Mar/Apr 2003

“If you are looking for real Pinot Noir – complexity, purity and finesse, rather than power, muscle and gaminess – this is the place to come.” – Clive Coates, Cote D’Or, 1997

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